If you’re looking for a slice of Spain that blends history, nature, and unexpected culinary delights, Zamora should be on your radar. Nestled in the northwest of Castilla y León, this serene province is a treasure trove of Romanesque architecture, sleepy villages, and wild landscapes. On a recent trip, I discovered a mix of everything—from ancient monasteries and fortified towns to secret lagoons and the best local chickpeas you’ve ever tasted.
Birdwatcher’s Paradise: Villafáfila
Start your journey about 50 kilometers from Zamora city in the heart of Tierra de Campos. Villafáfila is a true oasis amid dry fields, dotted with over 100 traditional pigeon houses and dozens of seasonal lagoons. While November to February is peak season for birdwatching, even in summer the landscape dazzles: golden fields stretch to the horizon, punctuated by vibrant red poppies under a sunset sky. With early mornings or twilight visits, you can spot everything from herons and cranes to little bustards and red kestrels. Walk or drive along the free viewpoints at Llanura de Tapioles and Revellinos de Campos—binoculars at the ready.
Ancient Monastic Marvel: Moreruela Abbey
Next, venture to the countryside near Granja de Moreruela to explore the ruins of the Cistercian Monastery of Santa María. Dating back to the 12th century, this site combines Romanesque and Gothic elements. Even in its ruined state, the sheer scale of the church’s central columns and the remaining carved stonework is awe-inspiring. Imagine the monks managing properties from Zamora to Portugal, funding the abbey with salt flats, water mills, and other assets—this place was a powerhouse in its day. It’s quiet, contemplative, and perfect for history lovers looking to step back in time.
Hidden Gems Along the Silver Route
Travel along the historic Vía de la Plata, and you’ll stumble upon tiny villages like Castrotorafe and Roales del Pan. Castrotorafe’s medieval castle, with its double walls and three towers, hints at centuries of strategic importance, while Roales del Pan preserves Roman milestones that once marked the route to Astorga. Along the way, stroll through Valorio forest and listen to woodpeckers tapping in the pines—a peaceful contrast to the rich history around you.
Zamora City: Romanesque & Modernist Delights
In Zamora city, Romanesque churches dot the skyline, with the cathedral’s scaled dome watching over the Duero River. Wander streets like Rúa de los Francos and Calle de Santa Clara to see medieval and modernist buildings side by side. Don’t miss the main square, Plaza Mayor, or the Parador hotel with its grand arcades. For foodies, tapas bars are everywhere, and the local Toro wine pairs perfectly with your snacks. Markets and colorful modernist gems like the Casino make every street a photo opportunity.
Toro: Wine, Churches, and History
Perched on a rocky outcrop above the Duero, Toro is a small town with a big history. Its Romanesque bridges, imposing fortress, and 12th-century collegiate church make it a must-visit. Wander the streets to discover the “Five Churches of Toro” or relax at a wine tasting in Divina Proporción winery. Sweet tooths, take note: pick up local delights like Torrasanas, Perusas, or almond treats from Morillo’s candy shop.
Fuentesaúco: Chickpea Heaven
Foodies, Fuentesaúco is calling. Famous for its chickpeas, grown under royal protection since the 16th century, this village celebrates simple but exceptional flavors. Visit in July or August to see harvest season in action. Don’t miss Jambrina nearby, where garlic is king: white or purple, depending on the season, it’s used in soups and traditional Spanish omelets.
Arribes del Duero: Dramatic Cliffs & Border Views
For breathtaking natural scenery, head to the Duero River border with Portugal. The Arribes del Duero gorge, with cliffs soaring up to 500 meters, is perfect for hiking, cycling, or a leisurely boat ride. Local olive oils, wines, and cheeses make excellent pit stops along the way. Villages like Fermoselle, known as the “City of a Thousand Wines,” are perfect for exploring underground bodegas and sipping Arribes wine while watching the sunset over the canyon.
Wild Zamora: Wolves, Lakes & Stars
Finally, explore the wild northern reaches near Sanabria. Sanabria Lake, the largest glacial lake in Spain, is surrounded by forests teeming with wildlife, including Iberian wolves—the highest density in the country. Hike, rent a kayak, or just relax by the water. Villardeciervos is a perfect starting point, with local guides offering wildlife tours and workshops. Night owls and stargazers will also love the area—it’s one of Spain’s darkest regions, making the Milky Way impossible to miss.
From Romanesque cathedrals to golden fields and secret lagoons, Zamora proves that Spain’s inland treasures are just as magical as the coast. Bring binoculars, your camera, and an appetite—you’ll leave with unforgettable memories and maybe even a few new foodie favorites.
